Eating: Hougue du Pommier, Guernsey

Where we ate:
The Tudor Bar at the Hougue du Pommier Hotel
La Route de la Hougue du Pommier, Castel, Guernsey, GY5 7FQ.

When we ate:
7pm
Thursday 9 July, 2009

What we ate:
Lightly seasoned and spiced octopus
Calamari
-
Grilled haddock and chips
Steamed sole wrapped in lettuce with mustard cabbage and a lobster reduction
Brochette of salmon and scallops
Smoked haddock
Roast rack of lamb
-
Passionfruit creme brulee
Apple crumble

What we drank:
Chenin blanc

What we paid:
£22 per person for two courses plus drinks and coffee

For this impromptu family get together of nine people aged between 24 and 79 the staff at the Hougue du Pommier hotel's Tudor Bar made us feel really welcome. On a beautiful summer's evening we enjoyed a drink in the hotel's peaceful garden before entering the bar for our meal. We were given a large table where we could spread out and chat in comfort.

In addition to the usual menu there were two specials, the grilled haddock and the roast rack of lamb, and also a seafood menu (for the whole month of July). Most of us ordered either one of the specials or from the seafood menu, which was mouth-watering.

The hungriest members of our party ordered starters. The portion of calamari was reasonably sized and well presented, but the octopus' appearance was disappointing. From the description on the special seafood menu we were expecting a summery salad of dressed or marinaded fresh octopus. However the octopus had been finely chopped and curried in a mild sauce and was presented in a brown dollop in the centre of a bare white plate. The portion was also rather small. The taste was good, but didn't completely atone for the size, appearance and lack of convention of this dish.

The main courses were much more exciting, all served with crisp steamed green vegetables, intensely garlicky mushrooms and dauphinoise potatoes. I chose sole, from the seafood menu. Two substantial fillets of sole had been wrapped in lettuce and delicately steamed. The fish was nothing short of excellent. It was accompanied by some startling sour mustard cabbage and a sweet, intense lobster reduction. The combination of flavours was delightful. My fellow diners were all pleased with their main courses too and we were impressed by the efficient service from all of the friendly members of staff.

I was unwise to choose a dessert as I was actually full from the sole, however as others were indulging I chose a light-sounding passionfruit cheesecake. This was a cheesecake of two halves, or perhaps three thirds. The slim biscuit base was light, crisp and pleasantly savoury. The "cheese" was also very light, flavoured delicately with passionfruit. So far so good. Unfortunately atop the dessert was a thin disc of rubbery, gelatinous nastiness that tasted overwhelmingly of sour passionfruit. I don't have a sweet tooth and relish the sharpness of unsweetened fruit, but this was far too much of a sour, sharp taste even for my palate. The slimy, chewy texture of the passionfruit gel ruined a pretty good cheesecake. Inexplicably, it was served with a ramekin of warm custard (from a tin).

Reports of the apple crumble were much more flattering.

The waiting staff members acted only too happy to take photographs of us after our meal while we enjoyed generous pots of tea and filtered coffee (although to some guests' disappointment the hot drinks were not accompanied by a petit four or after dinner mint).

In conclusion I feel that the Tudor Bar's best feature was the temporary seafood menu. Some of the food was wonderful, but certain dishes did not make the mark and there is room for improvement in these areas. The hotel restaurant was fully booked on the Thursday evening when we visited, evidently it is popular even in the current economic downturn. The high quality service and ambience of the hotel indicate clearly that someone has put a great deal of thought into this place and this needs to be applied to the Tudor Bar menu in order to ensure that it becomes a top dining destination on the island.

Will we go back?
Yes, I think so. The hotel is beautiful and the service is welcoming and efficient. We will pick carefully from the menu and almost certainly skip dessert in future.